Turkey travel guide

Istanbul Bucket List

We’ll save you the Google search: the Golden Horn is not a measurement of a donkey’s depth times its length but is a horn-shaped bay dividing a megalopolis. And now, back to breakfast — which Zeytinez, reputed to be the best place in town, insists is better taken under the shade of European plane trees.

10 places Apr–May, Sep–Oct best time History, bazaars & food
Istanbul skyline, Turkey

Why Istanbul belongs on your bucket list

One of the oldest cities in the world, Istanbul is a fine example of multiculturalism, as three empires (two if you don't count Rome) have left their mark and made the city what it is today. The city has successfully been able to marry the old with the new and even the older. Modern art galleries and nightclubs face the Byzantine city walls and Ottoman stone fortresses. Not to mention the drunk Irish. You'll rarely hear a bad word said about the city and it's for good reason. From its historically significant museums, to its glittering nightlife, to the underground cisterns that leave you in awe of their existence – Istanbul will rock your world. Literally, in the case of a bombing. But don't let that put you off. You've got less chance of getting blown up than shot in America. The food isn't terrible either.

When to go

Spring months of April and May are the best time to visit Istanbul since the weather is pleasant and tolerable during these months. September and the first half of October is also a good time. The days are sunny and warm. Evenings cooler (around 15 deg C, 7 deg C at night). The light is beautiful in Istanbul. There are tulips everywhere in April, the tulip festival has millions of tulips in parks around the city. Here is a trivia: Tulips are originally from Turkey and were imported to Holland. Summer is hot (30-35 deg C) and humid. It can get a bit unbearable. It's least recommended. If you choose to visit during Summers, come in June when the days are longer and the evenings much cooler (similar to September), and nights quite warm Tea and coffee is Turkish tradition and you get the best here. Visit during Ramadan, the peace and tranquility are amazing especially the time of Iftar in the evening if you are fasting even if you do not visit the mosque. Daytime dining might get affected during Ramadan though. Prices are 50 percent down during Winter, which is cold (+5 deg C) and a bit gloomy. The Bosphorus is dramatic during this time since the water is choppy the skies are brooding. You can layer up and enjoy Istanbul attractions indoors. It could rain. Bring an umbrella. If you don't like the cold do not visit. The sunset is at 5.30 in January which is quite good. With less light, the sun seems always closer to the ground. It never snows.

Must-visit places in Istanbul

01

Hagia Sophia

For a millennium, this has been a special place. Then, for a while, it wasn't. It is once again. The ceiling is incredibly high, and it may make your neck hurt. You will see Byzantine art living in harmony with Islamic art. They could tell stories to each other. You can enter at no cost, but there may be a long queue. You can also enter during prayer, but you can't disturb anyone.

02

Blue Mosque

This mosque has six minarets and multiple domes adding to its unique architecture. There is an intricate tile decoration inside which covers the walls of the mosque, and it is an iconic symbol of Turkey's cultural heritage. This is a must-visit spot for anyone traveling to Istanbul. Entrance to the mosque is free except during prayer times. Make sure you are dressed modestly and do not forget to cover your head. For women, scarves are provided at the entrance.

03

Grand Bazaar

With Rephrase, you can find your way to 4,000 shops across 61 streets, as they're all inside! Lose yourself amidst ceramics, hanging lanterns, textiles, leather goods, and gold. Each corridor unveils a new realm. Don't take the first offer... ever! Haggling can be an amusing experience and pays off as well. Start negotiating to find the right tune. The entrance shops are the worst. Keep going. The deeper you get, the better the prices and the cooler the craftspeople. When you get too overwhelmed, have a tea. Then dive back in.

04

Topkapi Palace

Sultans had ruled the Ottoman Empire from that same spot for 400 years. The Harem, a hotbed of titillation, requires a separate ticket. Pay it. Not really for the Topkapi Dagger or the 86-carat diamond in the Treasury. Not for the tile work in some of the loveliest rooms you will ever see. Only pay it for the terrace to sentence yourself to that view. To Europe --and all its memory-filled getaways, its poles reaching out, having tasted raw imperious Risto magic-- on the left. To Asia on the right. And one of the world's waterways in the middle.

05

Basilica Cistern

This underground palace has a shadowy, dreamlike atmosphere. 336 marble columns support the vaulted ceilings, brought here hundreds of miles from quarries in northern Turkey, and the spectacular watery reflections, combined with the dim lighting, create a surreal feeling. The cathedral-like cistern is an acre in area with a capacity of 2.8 million cubic feet of water. It's Stygian in the extreme. Create an image in your mind of half-light, scattered odd-sized shadows, the incessant drip of unseen water, and the muffled echo of footsteps.

06

Spice Bazaar

Not as large as the Grand Bazaar but equally fascinating and easier to navigate. Here you will find a wide variety of spices, dried fruits, colorful Turkish delights, and countless barrels of tea. Friendly vendors will offer you free samples, so be sure to try them all and purchase your favorites to take home, such as sumac, pul biber (Turkish red pepper flakes), and apple tea. Explore the surrounding streets where you can visit a pet market, flower market, and hardware stores. This is the authentic Istanbul that most tourists never see.

07

Bosphorus Cruise

Avoid the touristy cruises. Instead, hop on the public ferry from Eminonu – it cruises the same Bosphorus stretch at a fraction of the cost. You'll see Ottoman palaces, yali (gorgeous waterside homes), and the Rumeli Fortress looming large. Then buy a simit (sesame bread ring) from the snack seller right on the pier, order a glass of tea at the ferry's makeshift bar, and just unwind. The way back is especially rewarding: At sunset, the minarets are a-flame with the golden-pink sky, an image that will stay with you.

08

Galata Tower

Visit the 14th-century Genoese Tower. It offers a 360-degree view. You can see the Golden Horn, Bosphorus, and old city all at once. I recommend going in the evening. The mosques shine like jewels, the ships glow like fireflies as they cross the dark water, making Istanbul one of the most romantic sights in the world, and it's this neighborhood that's the heart of Istanbul's thriving arts scene – Galata and Karakoy.

09

Kadikoy

You should definitely hop on a commuter ferry to the Asian side. It's where the actual living (eating, shopping, etc.) is done. Kadikoy's Bahariye Street has bookstores, bars, clothing stores – but none of that twee tourist shit. Kadikoy Market has the best produce, cheeses, olives – and prices you'll hardly believe (because they haven't been inflated for tourists). Ciya Sofrasi serves regional Turkish food made with recipes that were literally dying out in Turkish society until this chef started traveling all over Turkey, collecting them. This will be the best meal you eat on your trip. I am not exaggerating.

10

Suleymaniye Mosque

Many Istanbulites claim it's more beautiful than the Blue Mosque. The architect Sinan judged the interior proportions perfectly. The dome seems to float on a ring of light from the windows below the dome. There's a fantastic view of the Golden Horn from the marble courtyard. And the bonus? A fraction of the tourists the Blue Mosque gets visit this mosque. You can actually sit, think, and absorb the atmosphere. Behind the mosque are the beautiful gardens and tombs of Suleiman the Magnificent and Hurrem Sultan. Well worth the visit.

Istanbul insider tips

  • Istanbulkart: A rechargeable card that can be used on the ferries, trams, buses, and metro. Get one at any station. Saves money on all your fares and makes ferry-hopping between two continents easy. Essential.
  • Turkish Breakfast: Must be done at least once. Van Kahvalti Evi in Cihangir is the famous one. Be there by 9 a.m. on the weekends, otherwise it's an hour wait. The spread will be the most that's been laid in front of you for breakfast. You will not eat it all. You will try it all.
  • Hammam: Must be done. Cagaloglu Hamami and Kilic Ali Pasa Hamami are the most atmospheric. Get the works: scrub, foam massage, relaxation room. Budget 1-2 hours. You will leave there feeling like a new person. I am not exaggerating.
  • Scams: Friendly guy near Taksim asks you to follow him to "his friend's bar"? Don't. You will get a bill that will make your eyes water. Say no nicely. Go where you want to go. This is one of the oldest tricks in Istanbul.
  • Tea Culture: Someone invites you for cay (tea)? Say yes. From the shopkeepers to the taxi drivers to the random passers-by on the street? They all do it. It's free. It's genuine. It's the way things work in Turkey. Don't refuse the offer.

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