Lisbon Bucket List
As a solo traveler, Lisbon stole my heart the second I hopped off that tram. The tiles in disrepair, the sound of fado floating out of a window, and the smell of sardines on the grill tugging me down... an incline I never meant to walk upon. It’s romantic, even as a solo traveler. And c’mon, this much cheaper than Paris? Unbeatable.
Why Lisbon belongs on your bucket list
I've visited many capital cities in Europe. Among them, Lisbon is the only one where I've felt compelled to rebook a return flight to prolong my vacation. The culinary scene has undergone an explosion in the last 10 or 12 years. Eating petiscos (Portuguese tapas) in bars hidden from view, eating three-Michelin-starred things with cod and not knowing that fish could be so good, eating pastries that are so delicious you immediately find yourself eating four custard tarts and it's still only 11 am and never regret anything. Bairro Alto is a weekend street party. The clubs are open until the morning. Nonetheless, it's the peaceful moments that most appeal to me. A glass of vinho verde on a miradouro while the setting sun illuminates the bridge. Fado in those street bars in Alfama where you can hear a pin fall. Losing yourself in this 1000-year-old city for centuries and not giving a damn.currentTime.
When to go
The best time to visit is from March to May and September to October. The weather is perfect for long walks and exploring the city. June is also a great time to visit because of the Santo Antonio Festival, which is a lively and fun celebration. July and August can be hot and crowded, but the sea breeze makes it more bearable. Plus, you can always escape to the nearby beaches for some relaxation.
Must-visit places in Lisbon
Pasteis de Belem
The secret recipe used to make these custard tarts has been a closely guarded secret since 1837. That’s the year the monks at the Jeronimos Monastery just down the road began baking them to use up surplus egg yolk (also used to iron clothes...) after starching clothes with egg whites. Suffering for your art was totally a thing in the 19th century. The line often stretches down the block, but do not let this deter you. The good news is that it moves quickly, enabling you to quickly justify ordering four... ahem, two. Sprinkle with generous amounts of cinnamon and powdered sugar and eat them piping hot. Always leave room for one more.
Alfama & Miradouro Santa Luzia
Alfama was spared by the 1755 earthquake that destroyed most of Lisbon, yes. However, Alfama did not really need that kind of "help". It has kept its medieval architecture / character. Winding alleys. Tile buildings in a state of fantastic decay. Courtyards you only find because you are lost. Fado music was born here, and on a quiet evening you can still hear the haunting strains escape from an open doorway uphill. Miradouro Santa Luzia will give you the classic shot of rooftops and river. But truly? Just lose the map in Alfama.
Jeronimos Monastery
It took a century to build this monastery and you can tell. Each column, doorway, and arch is carved with painstaking precision bordering on obsession. Can you say #details? There's ropes, shells, coral, all worked in stone to commemorate Portugal's Age of Discovery. But the real reason people come here? The cloisters. These two-story high walls of white limestone seem to emit their light under the late afternoon sun. PS, get your tix online otherwise you'll be stuck in the queue for an hour.
Tram 28
The iconic Tram 28 ride is not to be missed, winding up and down the hilly, narrow, and medieval streets of Alfama, Baixa, and Graça. Best done either early in the morning or late in the evening so that you miss most of the tourists and scoop up a truly local experience. Ideally, you don't get on it at all and just wait for the next one, hang on for dear life as you reach the back, lean out of the open window, and try to pull your shoulder off when it turns. A wild, wild west window is also like cryotherapy for stiffness.
Bairro Alto
During the day, it's a sleepy village of independent shops and slightly peeling grandeur. It comes alive at night (Thurs-Sat) in a way that seems only possible in Portugal. Every is sardine-packed with drinkers and spilling out of bars the size of a broom cupboard. No door policies, no cover charges. Swigs of ginjinha for loose change. That everyone-is-invited spirit is exactly the point. Don't even think of turning up before 11 pm; the bars kick off post-midnight and keep running 'til breakfast.
Time Out Market
It’s Lisbon’s best food court, but the best of everything, and all under one roof at the Mercado da Ribeira. The old-school traditional market is in the morning, then Time Out Market comes for lunch and dinner. The food Henrique Sa Pessoa is serving up in his seafood dishes is insanely good. Same with the prego (steak sandwich) from O Velho Eurico. Seating is communal, so you’ll make friends whether you want to or not. Also great for solo travelers.
Belem Tower
The Portuguese explorers used this tower as their last refuge during high tide and the last place to pray before leaving for their unknown expeditions. The architecture of this tower is just mind-blowing. The position of the tower is right in the middle of the sea.
A Tasca do Chico
Tiny, no seats, no bookings, arrive by 9 p.m. or forget it, room utterly silent when singer starts, I mean twenty strangers no noise at all, Fado music of saudade the longing for something unknown. You will not know the word until you have heard it sung in a room this size with tears welling in the eye of the stranger sitting next to you.
Principe Real
At the heart of the neighborhood is a vast cedar tree in the garden, splaying canopy-like over everything. The streets are larded with the nicest independent boutiques, there are organic markets on Saturdays and wine bars where nobody is urgent. Embaixada is a concept store in a Moorish palace. Portuguese designers, beautifully hung. It all feels very relaxed, very moneyed, but not at all snobbish. It feels like grown-up Lisbon.
Cervejaria Ramiro
They have been serving since 1956. Tiger prawns are ridiculous. Percebes or goose barnacles will blow your mind. Garlic clams are lick-your-fingers delish. And then, the secret is, you end with a steak sandwich, or Prego. Surf, turf, it just works. It's Portuguese, it just works. No reservations. Hour-long lines on weekends. Show up at 6 p.m. on a Tuesday, waltz straight in.
LX Factory
An old textile factory is wedged in between a railway and a highway, and the whole stack of buildings trembles when the train passes over the bridge that runs through it. Completely by chance, the ground floor is now numerous restaurants and bars, like the LX Factory. Most weekends art galleries and design showrooms throw open their doors so you can pore over their wares.
Lisbon insider tips
- Hills: Lisbon will destroy your calf muscles. Wear shoes with good grip as the cobblestone calcada roads are slippery with rain. The lifts and funiculars, such as the Elevador da Bica, are for real public transport use, not just tourists.
- Ginjinha: One euro. Sour cherry liqueur. Tiny bar near Rossio Square. If you want the cherries in the glass, say "com elas." If not, say "sem elas." Do it at least once. You will end up doing it many more times.
- Seafood: Cheap and amazing. If the restaurant is full of Portuguese families on a Sunday, the fish is fresh. That is the only rule you need. Grilled sardines in June are basically a religion here.
- Lisboa Card: For public transport, including trains to Sintra and Belem. Also includes museum and monument admission. The 24 or 48-hour version will pay for itself in no time.
- Sintra day trip: 40 minutes away by train. Go early. The line for the Pena Palace is brutal after 10 a.m. The Moorish castle and the Quinta da Regaleira are just as amazing with shorter lines.
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